Monday 26 April 2010

Life on the ocean wave

So, we survived three nights on Whitsunday Magic and enjoyed it so much that we've booked another three nights. We've got a couple of hours on dry land before we get back on board. The boat is stunning with a big sun deck on top with loungers for lounging, plus another deck at the back with some all-important shade and tables and chairs for eating al fresco. We've got an en-suite cabin (teeny tiny, both the cabin and the en suite but adequate for our needs) with air-con and the food has been out of this world. We knew we'd arrived when, lounging on our loungers this morning, the chef approached and said, 'Chocolate tart ladies?' We've had peppered steak with garlic and rosemary sauteed potatoes, fish with salt and pepper calamari served on a bed of lemon and lime risotto and grilled zuccini, fruit sorbet with ginger crumble, vanilla panna cotta with fruit coulis... You get the drift. Why would we not get back on the boat?

We've also done lots of snorkelling and had fish eyeballing us, so close they are touching our masks. We've seen lots of lovely coral. A few turtles. A dolphin. Done a bush walk. Seen the swirling sands that you will have seen on postcards. I went for a run (in the rain admittedly) on Whitehaven Beach. And I've done lots of reading. The crew were all lovely - mainly English - and the passengers were all nice too. No life-long friendships but that's not why I'm here. Janelle and I have survived living in such close proximity and we're really looking forward to the next three days. The weather has been mixed but always warm so no complaints there. We've also had the sails up a few times - that's pretty amazing.

So, the bad news about staying on the boat for three more days is that I'm going to be at sea for my birthday. Now that's a great thing for me but I know it will upset me Ma if she doesn't get to speak to me on the day. I'll just have to see if we've got signal, as we haven't for large parts of the cruise, but I know you will be thinking of me and will be thinking right back atchya. It will be a tough day but in a way, being so remote will help it not feel like my birthday. And that's a good thing. Unfortunately we managed to leave the parcels people have very kindly posted to me in Melbourne, but they are winging their way to Brisbane as I type so I'll get them on Sunday. Thank you so much to those of you who did that - you are very kind. And I'm also incredibly touched by the lovely Zehra who has arranged to go out for a drink with Molly on my birthday. You are a very special person and I love you for doing that. I'm so touched that you even thought of it, nevermind extended international invites to our friends. I'll be raising my glass to you and thanks to you I'll be enjoying a cocktail or two, or maybe some bubbly as the sun sets over the ocean - thank you Z!

So, on that note I better sign off as my internet time is running out. Will be back later in the week...

Friday 23 April 2010

The sunshine state

Well, here I am at Brisbane airport waiting for our flight to Proserpine in the Whitsundays. It's a beautiful sunny day and very warm up here, although the locals find it a bit cool now it's autumn. Brisbane is a lovely city and we've been extremely well looked after by Janelle's aunty and uncle. Yesterday we were taken down the river on the catamaran and saw Brissie from the river. There's some lovely waterfront properties with private jetties, not dissimilar in parts to the Thames in Surrey. Last night we went out in town with Janelle's cousin and sat at a waterfront bar with views of the city and bridge and had one too many bottles of sav. Still, we're on holiday.

Later we join a tall ship, the Whitsunday Magic, for a three-day cruise around the islands. I can't wait. We seem to have been quite hectic up until now, what with the move etc, so it will be nice to get on board and not have to worry about anything for a while. Do some reading. Maybe some snorkelling. Enjoy the food and the company. It'll be interesting to see who we meet on the boat and funny to think of them getting excited for the same trip right now.

Anyway, I will update you on the end of the Melbourne leg when I've got more time but just wanted to check in and say hello. Thanks for the various texts and emails you've sent - it's always so nice to get them and hear how you're doing back home. Happy belated birthday to Marra Hooch - hope you had a good one. Get back to work Molly Mackey. And a final big up to the Toon who will lift our first bit of silverware in a canny while at the weekend. Haway the lads!

Friday 16 April 2010

Going AWOL

Just to let you know that we're moving house tomorrow and the new place doesn't have internet access. It'll be like therapy for me. I'll have to go cold turkey. It also means that it'll likely be all quiet on the blog front, in case you were wondering what had happened to me. In addition to the lack of internet access, we fly to Brisvegas on Wednesday then join a 3-day sailing trip on Friday so I'll definitely be AWOL during that time. I'll be back as and when I can. Hope you all have a good weekend and that the volcanic ash cloud soon blows over so my poor parents can get back from Poland.

Also, a quick update on my day if you're interested: this morning I took the Colt for a drive to the local shops. It all went well but when Janelle got back from work she informed me I'd parked the car the wrong way on the street. Apparently here you can't park in the opposite direction to the flow of traffic on your side of the road. Strange but true. This afternoon I went to see the Ron Mueck exhibition (http://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/ronmueck/). It was truly amazing. I've never seen anything like it. Talented guy. Tonight has been all about the pumpkin risotto and packing for the move tomorrow. Oh, and a little bit of emailing and blogging. And the sun shone all day long in the blue blue sky. It's meant to be the same tomorrow and will hopefully last until Sunday when we're exploring some of the Mornington Peninsula wineries. Bring it on.

I know what I mean but it's hard to articulate...

Last night I met up with Ben and Josh who T and I met on our South American trip in 2002. Believe it or not, they live just down the road from Janelle. Not just in the same huge country that I happen to be in. Or the same town, which would be a coincidence in itself. But in the same hood. It really is a small world. Either that or the powers that be that conspired to make this trip possible (I'm thinking timely redundancy, free business class flights, key friends in key places, etc), intervened yet again. T got on so well with Ben and Josh on every level, from music to outlook on life, that it wouldn't surprise me if he, or these mysterious powers that be, conspired to make it possible for me to meet up with them. This is such a surreal trip in many ways. I feel like I'm unwittingly on a Tim trip that has been specially tailored for Sarah. But it's still a Tim trip. It's like fate, man. I was meant to come on this trip and I was meant to meet up with the people I've been able to meet up with in order to get something from those experiences that will somehow help me.


Anyway, T and I have only seen the boys once since Peru, when they lived in London, and that was a good few years ago now. But seeing them again last night it was as if I only saw them yesterday. And that is such a good feeling. We were only together for a few days, let's say a week, in South America. (We met on a bus in Pisco, got off somewhere and did some sand-boarding, got a ride in a random Dodge to Nazca - a very surreal journey - then celebrated T's birthday together before our early morning plane ride above the Nazca Lines. We then went our separate ways, met again on the Inca Trail and had a drunken night out or two in Cusco afterwards before we said our goodbyes once again. In La Paz we met Ben and Josh's sister Amber and had another random night in an Italian restaurant and that was it.)


From meeting Ben and Josh again, I'm truly amazed at how much you get to know people in a short space of time and how much you can remember from 8 years ago when you engage your brain. Although we've never been close friends, never spent much time together and haven't really kept in touch over the years, it really didn't matter. It felt so normal to see them again and it didn't matter that we didn't know the minutiae of each other's lives over the past 8 years. In fact, maybe it was better that way, as it meant we just caught up on the highlights rather than the mundane. So we shared recent news. And we did lots of reminiscing about the short time we spent together in South America. Reminding each other of things the others may have forgotten. I really can't remember dancing to Rock DJ in the Mama Africa nightclub in Cusco for example. It doesn't surprise me a) that I was dancing to Rock DJ, b) that I can't remember it, especially given it was probably about 2am and I'd no doubt had a skinful, and c) because it was 8 whole years ago, but it's nice that someone I was with that night can remember it and can remind me of it.


It's so hard being without the person who has been at your side for the past 13 years for so many reasons. But one of those reasons is not having anyone to talk about your shared experiences with. Either experiences that you both remember and can re-live together, or experiences that one of you may have forgotten but the other person can provide the prompts to help jog your memory. That's one thing I really value about this trip. And one of the things that has made it possible for me to embark on this journey. Although I've gone it alone in lots of ways, I've never been on my own. And this trip will be the bond that ties all the people I've met on this trip, both old and new, together forever. I could meet people from the Flying Kiwi trip in 10 years time and we'd still be able to talk about our adventures, have a laugh, remind each other of the crazy time we spent together. The same applies to the old friends I've met along the way. This is just another connection that we'll always have. OK, some of the detail may get a bit fuzzy, but the chances are, as last night proved, one of you will remember some random and completely unimportant detail that the other has forgotten so that between you, you will be able to fill in the gaps and complete the memory. And remember. And smile.


(Sorry about the random paragraph formatting on this one. I'm over trying to fix it)

Thursday 15 April 2010

Wildlife

Sometimes being in Australia is just like being at home. Sometimes it's not. Here's some wildlife examples:

- Those monster bats. They really freak me out. They fly so high up and they are really really big. Like really big. Here's a pic to illustrate my point. I've never seen anything like it.









The other day as Janelle was walking home from work, in the dark since the clocks went back, she disturbed one of these monsters. She said she could hear the whoosh, whoosh of its wings as it went. Some googling has revealed that they are fruit bats or flying foxes. No shit. They are about the size of foxes. Wikipedia tells me that they are frugivorous or nectivorous so they aren't about to come and attach themselves to my neck, but I'm not so sure.

- Yesterday, during my paddle, I looked out to sea and saw a group of seagulls bobbing around in the water. Beside them were two swans. Then I looked again. My swans were in fact pelicans. Something we would only see in a zoo back home. I quite like pelicans and have seen them before in South America but it was still funny seeing them going about their business in Melbourne.

- When I went running round the Yarra Bend Park the other day I saw lots of budgerigars. In the wild. Not in cages like little Oscar (our childhood, and much-loved, budgie). They were the colours of the rainbow and got quite close. There's also lots of parakeets and those white cockatoos flying about the place. The parakeets remind me of home as there's thousands of them in west London. They make a right racket.

- On the way to Colac we passed lots of kangaroo and koala warning signs on the road but the only thing we saw was a roo roadkill. Imagine one of those buggers hitting your car. Especially the 20-odd year old Colt. I think it would have done us more damage that we would have done it.

Right, that's enough David Attenborough for one day. Go see Micmacs if you get the chance. It's a great little film - typically and Frenchly quirky - and another of those non-Hollywood feel-good movies. Not necessary to see it on the big screen; add it to your lovefilm list if you like French films.

Wednesday 14 April 2010

Safe havens

I know I've said it before, but I'll say it again. I couldn't have done this trip without the love and support of my conveniently-located international friends. Staying with first Laura, then Janelle and last night with my school friend Chris and his girlfriend Genevieve has been my comfort blanket. In each of their homes I have been made to feel so welcome. I've been allowed to come and go as I please and have been generously fed and watered. I've felt safe and looked after. And really at home in their homes. I can't imagine how I'd be feeling right now if I was staying in a downtown backpackers. I think I might have caught a flight home a long time ago. While it's been really good to make new friends on this journey I'm on, it's also been a life-saver to see familiar faces from the past. Some from the more recent past and some from the more distant past, but familiar faces all the same. We've had a yarn, reminisced, caught up on the years we've missed. It's amazing how with real friends it doesn't matter how much time passes. When you see each other again you just pick up where you left off.

And I've still got more friends to see. Tomorrow night I'm meeting a couple of Aussies T and I met when we did our South America trip about 6 years ago - how random is that that they live in Melbourne too? Then I'm been given a bed with a complimentary airport shuttle service from my old Strasbourg friend Steve in Brisbane at the start of May, before I head off to see my old school friend Pam in Singapore, followed by a visit to a former colleague who now lives in Saigon. I feel lucky to count these people as friends and am eternally grateful to them for helping to make this journey possible. I really couldn't have done it without you.

As I mentioned, last night I stayed with Chris and Genevieve in the posh suburb of Elwood. They've got a lovely place, right on the beach. I was driven around Albert Park, the Australian Grand Prix circuit that still had the hoardings etc up from the recent GP, then it was back to theirs for dinner - a delicious snapper pasta - and lots of red wine. It was so nice to see them and where they live. You'd have thought they'd have made more of an effort with the bedding though - it didn't even match ;o)

This morning I managed to sleep through two text messages beeping and didn't wake up until 9.20, the longest lie-in I've had since leaving home I think. I was lucky enough to have my morning cuppa in an NUFC mug then I had a paddle in the sea and walked along the beach to St Kilda. St Kilda is an up-market bit of town with some great little cafes. It's a nice place to just hang out and feel like you're on holiday. It was overcast again today but not too cold, although we've got the heating on now. I think autumn is really setting in here. Roll on Brisbane and some sunshine...  This afternoon I took in some art at one the galleries in Federation Square and now we're just waiting for our fish to cook then Janelle and I are off to the cinema to see a French film called Micmacs. Busy busy.

Monday 12 April 2010

Roadtrip

One week today I arrived in Melbourne. Time really does fly. But at the same time I feel like I've been here for longer than a week. The jazz night was a big success. Janelle and I went for cocktails (pear gin fizz - pears and gin, obviously, plus lemon juice, cinnamon syrup and soda - yum) at a cool bar called Murmur. Then on to the Bluestone jazz bar/restaurant that's owned by Janelle's friend's sister. We met up with Kirsten and Josie, who I met once before in London, and Josie's sister. It was a very chilled out evening. We had a delicious Amaretto cocktail (yum again) then sat down with a bottle of Merlot and had a good natter over pizzas and listened to the jazz that was better than expected. Once again, Janelle's friends made me feel very welcome and any anxieties I had before we arrived soon evaporated. I need to live more in the moment. Maybe if I say that enough times I'll start believing it more.

On Friday I met Janelle for lunch and we sat in the sunshine in Federation Square having our sandwiches. It was a shame Janelle had to go back to work but work she must, so I took myself off on a 6k walk around a park, to the Shrine of Remembrance and into the botanic gardens then back along the Yarra river. I saw a different side of Melbourne to the hustle and bustle of the city and it was nice wandering through the greenery with my thoughts and the birds, plus the odd tourist, for company. I did a lot of thinking. I felt a bit lonely. I missed T.

The fuse had tripped so the house was in darkness when I got home. I did the dishes wearing my head torch. Be prepared. On Friday night we met up with Michaela, another of Janelle's lovely friends (she possibly has even more than me), and went to a really cool local bar called Joe's Shoe Store. It once used to be, yes, you guessed it, a shoe store. Now it's a dark, sparsely-furnished little place with eclectic staff who play eclectic music. It was a bit like Cafe Kick on Shoreditch High St for those of you who know that place. But without the table football. You order pizzas from Pizza Meine Liebe next door and they bring them in to you. It had a refreshingly easy-going, unpretentious vibe. You didn't need to be cool to be there. Just as well. Similar places in London can be a bit try-hard. My Wellington and Melbourne experiences have really made me think that we're doing something wrong in London. We have so many chains, from Nando's to Pizza Express and from All Bar One to Slug & Lettuce. Granted there are independent joints too, but between the chains and the smelly old-man's pubs, the good independent places seem few and far between. Here they are on pretty much every corner. And they all seem good. I've not been in the coffee shop in the new arcade in my home town, but it doesn't entice me in and I've not heard great reports. Why couldn't that have been a cool little cafe with comfy chairs and cushions and interesting music, serving not just good but amazing coffee and proper homemade muffins and scones? Maybe I should stop ranting and do something about it. Maybe it still can be that place.

Anyway, I digress. We set off in the 20-odd year old Colt on Saturday morning bound for the Great Ocean Road. The name says it all. It makes you want to drive it. It was all the things it promises to be. Great. Ocean. Road. The weather was good, sunshine and a few clouds. A pleasant temperature. We drove down the freeway for an hour or so before turning off and heading for the ocean. We stopped for lunch at Torquay and sat on the beach watching the surfers. There were literally hundreds of them but the waves weren't huge so I reckon they were beginners. From there we continued down the coast to Lorne, where Janelle's family used to holiday every year in their caravan. It's a lovely little town and feels very unspoiled compared to some of the UK's seaside resorts. In Lorne there were a few trampolines for the kids, maybe even mini golf, but no amusement arcades and no stalls serving hot dogs and candy-floss. We stopped for a chai latte in a random op-shop that was serving hot drinks and had a balcony overlooking the sea. I've never had chai latte before but it was good. I might be having more of them. 

Then it was on to Colac, home of Janelle's lovely dad. He was really pleased to see us and we were welcomed into the family home with open arms. We had delicious roast lamb and were regaled with stories of his past, some of which even Janelle had never heard before. Colac is a smallish town and from what Janelle tells me, growing up there wasn't dissimilar to where I grew up. There's one nightclub for example, called Hush, where you wouldn't really go. Everyone knows everyone. Sometimes a good thing. Sometimes not. We slept in twin beds in Janelle's room. Like visiting Laura's childhood home, it was good to see where Janelle had grown up and to meet her dad. I think it was slightly surreal for Janelle to have a relatively recent friend from the other side of the world sleeping over in her childhood bedroom. Instead of chatting on and eating Mars Bars at midnight, we both popped our seven Chinese Ted tablets and went to sleep. How times change.

It was wet and very windy when we woke up on Sunday but Janelle and I set off for the Twelve Apostles anyway. I'm glad we did as the weather improved and we managed to stay dry every time we got out the car. We drove through the countryside, some of it not dissimilar to Northumberland, back to the coast at Port Campbell. The wind was blowing off the sea and the waves were pretty spectacular. It wasn't a good hair day. And I had to borrow a big kind of donkey jacket from Janelle's dad to keep the wind out, so I maybe wasn't looking my best. Still, as my mother would say, it wasn't a fashion show and at least I was warm. 

The coastline down there is spectacular. The erosion of the limestone is incredible and the tops of the cliffs are covered in green, scrubby bush. The sand is a lovely warm yellow colour and limestone cliffs and eroded stacks glow the same warm yellow when the sun catches them. It's a rugged coastline, very exposed to the elements. While it's nothing like Ireland or Scotland, the coastline has a similar wildness about it. We stopped at Loch Ard Gorge and walked to a blow hole and the Loch Ard Gorge. Here in 1878, the Loch Ard clipper, transporting immigrants from England, hit a reef and capsized, taking all but two of the 53 passengers with her. The two survivors found each other washed into the gorge and were rescued. Imagine coming all that way, sailing for endless days, only to hit a reef just off shore and drown. That really is the worst kind of luck.

There aren't actually twelve Apostles at the Twelve Apostles. Only eight. The ninth collapsed in 2005. (On a slightly different note, there's another place along the coast called London Bridge. It used to look like a bridge but the arch collapsed in 1990 leaving two people stranded on one side. They had to be rescued by helicopter. How scary must that have been? And how lucky that they weren't on the arch when it collapsed.) You view the Twelve Apostles from a cliff-top walkway and it was very very windy up there. The waves were really impressive and the sun kept coming out from the clouds to light up the sea and the stacks. The current stacks will eventually collapse too but by then new stacks will be formed as the coastline is further eroded so while there may never be Twelve Apostles, I reckon there will always be Apostles.

We had fish and chips in Port Campbell before making our way back to Colac. After a guided tour of the new house Janelle's dad is building for himself and loading the car up with veggies from the veggie patch we were back on the road again, this time Melbourne-bound. Janelle's dad really wanted me to stay for longer so he could show me some of the area's other sights before putting me back on the train to Melbourne, but we had a dinner appointment with Janelle's brother that evening so unfortunately I couldn't take him up on his offer. An invite to visit Colac was even extended to my family if they were ever over this way. He's such a kind and generous man. And, Anna H, if you're reading this then he would love to meet you too - he was asking after you and I think he misses your Corporate Edge chats! Sunday evening was spent with some more of Janelle's family - her brother, his wife and their two daughters. Once again I was made to feel very welcome and it was a relaxed and enjoyable evening with good food and good company.

I feel like I've gained a few pounds in the past two days. It's been a bit of an eating frenzy, so this morning I took myself out for another run. I was only out for half an hour or so but it was good to get some exercise and burn off some of the calories I've consumed. I also need to start thinking about some more serious training for the Great North Run that will no doubt be here before I know it. Quite how I'm going to manage 13 miles I don't know at this stage, but I will do it and I will do it for T. I saw in my diary that there was a Clapham Common 10k yesterday. I'm not sure if anyone from ICAP or any of my friends were doing it, but if you did then I hope it went well. I would really like to do the rest of them when I'm back (I think I miss two while I'm away) so will come and keep you company.

The weather is much cooler today and a bit blustery but it's meant to warm up later in the week. I'm meant to be going to Brunswick Street today - a cute little part of town with nice-looking shops but I'm sorry to say that I've got my old internet addiction back so I haven't yet gone. It's not that I'm addicted to the internet per se, more to keeping in touch with people. I only really use a handful of sites - hotmail, facebook, internet banking, the BBC (for NUFC and MotoGP updates) and my blog - so it's not that I spend hours doing random surfing but I constantly check my emails for messages. I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm waiting for an email from T. Right, well maybe admitting that is part of the battle so on that note I'll sign off, have some Vegemite on toast and make a move. It's about a 4k walk so at least I'll get some more fresh air and exercise. That will mean I'll be entitled to a nice cuppa when I get there. And I'll maybe sneak some homemade chocolate banana bread into my bag and have that too...

Thursday 8 April 2010

Melbourne life


As the pace has changed significantly since I arrived in Australia, I'm afraid my posts may not be as interesting as they were in NZ but at least they'll keep you updated on what I've been up to... 

Janelle is back at work after the long Easter weekend so I've been left to my own devices during the day. Paatschy is a very glamorous, corporate working lady and totters off in her posh frocks and heels every morning. I think I may need to take some tips from her and give my working wardrobe an overhaul when I'm back. It's so nice to spend time with Janelle after almost two years of not seeing her. It feels kind of weird and perfectly normal at the same time. Tuesday evening we went round to Claire and Jono's for tea and to watch Survivor. The three of them are really and truly addicted. I didn't quite get it myself but, like any of those reality tv programmes, I guess it's easy to get hooked. Claire and Jono were really easy company and made me feel very at home. It's nice to meet some of the people Janelle has talked about since she came back and who have looked out for her when her UK-based friends couldn't.

Yesterday Janelle made me an appointment with Ted, the acupuncturist she swears by. I've never had acupuncture before and it actually hurt more than I expected it to. Not all the needles hurt, but some of them were pretty painful. Apparently they were the ones that were really working. The one in my elbow was probably the worst. Ted wasn't surprised as that's the heart point and my heart has been broken. Who says it's mumbo-jumbo? I was also prescribed some Chinese herbal tablets. I've got to take 7 in the morning and 7 at night. That takes me quite a while as I've got to take them one at a time to stop myself from gagging. I'm not great at taking tablets. Even wee black ones like these. All in all it was an interesting experience. It's hard to say if it helped in any way. If you've got a physical ailment you can measure progress. That's not possible with emotions.

I then caught the tram and train back into town. Melbourne's transport system is comprehensive and efficient. It's also much cheaper than travelling in London. I sat in the sunshine in Federation Square and had my sandwich (made at home so nothing special to report) while listening to some live music. It was part of a festival to commemorate Black Saturday one year ago, the day of the devastating bush fires around Melbourne. The tourist info have a series of self-guided walk leaflets so after lunch I took myself off on one of them. I really enjoyed it. It gave me a purpose, a bit of information as I went, and took me down side streets that I would have otherwise missed. I saw the posh shopping street, China town and some of the little lanes, stopping in a cool cafe for a dark chocolate and strawberry muffin and an afternoon cuppa. We stayed in last night and enjoyed a glass or two of NZ pinot gris that I picked up at the airport in Wellington and a very simple but tasty dinner (put chicken breasts, punnet of cherry toms, handful of shredded basil, lemon zest and olive oil in an ovenproof dish with some seasoning and bake. Serve with mash). We tried watching Fantastic Mr Fox but both fell asleep so that will have to wait for another day.

Today I've done some reading, sorted out my car insurance (yawn) and caught up on yet more emails. I'm meeting Janelle after work and we're going for a drink - I've selected about 4 bars from her Melbourne Bar Secrets card deck so will see which one she recommends - then we're meeting up with some of her mates to go to a jazz evening at a restaurant. Neither of us are really that up on our jazz but it sounds like it will be a pretty mellow night and you can't really object to jazz. Famous last words...

It's so nice having a proper night's sleep once again. I've been taking sleeping tablets every night since I left the UK but have now had two nights of not taking them and have slept really well both nights. I took them mainly to help me sleep on the camping trip but was worried I might have become a bit addicted but so far so good. I thought I was getting a cold/chest infection but that seems to have passed without coming to much. I think the camping came to an end at just the right time.

The weather has been OK - it was hot yesterday but has been pretty overcast since I arrived. Today is cooler (about 21 degrees) and quite blustery. We've had rain overnight for the past two nights but so far the days have been dry. Hopefully it'll warm up again, otherwise my lily-white legs will be coming home the same colour as they were when I left. Oh, one other thing I have to tell you about is the bats they have here. They are absolutely huge and fly overhead, quite high up, in groups - more like seagulls would. I've never seen anything like it. Our little bats at home tend to flutter around the eaves looking for insects but these ones mean business. Claire was telling us that they carry some sort of disease that has spread to horses and some of the vets treating the horses have died. I'll be avoiding them I think.

Hope all is well with everyone - I know I may not contact you individually often but I do think of you and hope everyone is doing OK.

Tuesday 6 April 2010

New day, new country

Yesterday I got up at the crack of dawn and flew to Melbourne. It was sad saying goodbye to Laura and her apartment, good to be climbing the 125 steps to street level for the last time in a while, bad to be flying economy, amazing to be greeted by Janelle at the airport, exciting to catch glimpses of the city from the car and a relief to finally be sat on Janelle's veranda eating toast and Vegemite and enjoying a nice cup of tea. The flight was only 4 hours but Australia is 2 hours behind NZ so my body clock was a bit out, especially as my alarm went off at 3.55am. Not a civilised time. I was joking about flying economy by the way. I mean, I did fly economy, but I was joking about it being a hardship. Just so you know.

Janelle's current house is lovely and I'm looking forward to spending a couple of weeks here, in my second home from home. It's in a really quiet residential neighbourhood that's very green and leafy. It's not at all like Surbiton but it kind of reminds me of it in the same but different quiet residential way. The house in all on one level but has really high ceilings and is a lot like some of the Victorian houses at home with lovely fireplaces and ceiling cornices. It's very light and airy and the kitchen has huge glass doors that open out onto a little back garden and wrap-around decking area. Neighbours fans may be interested to know that we've got a screen door and a covered veranda at the front with a chair on it so I can sit out there and play at being Helen Daniels.

We caught the train into town for lunch yesterday, a short 15 minute ride away. Melbourne reminds me a bit of NYC. There's lots of cool little cafes tucked away down alleyways that you'd either have to stumble across accidentally or know about. There's that same mixture of old stone buildings and modern skyscrapers. There's lots of interesting modern architecture and some pretty cool sculptures dotted around. There's a nice buzz about the place. And lots of shops. Melbournites themselves seem very cool and the women have a certain way of dressing. They look effortlessly good. I think I have some work to do on my wardrobe and accessories. And my self-confidence. The thermals and waterproof trousers may have to be posted home to make room for some more appropriate garments.

We had lunch in one of the aforementioned cool little cafes (I had a delicious bagel with shredded beef, salad, pinenuts and mint yogurt - kind of Moroccany - and a fresh juice with watermelon, pineapple and mint. So far Melbourne is giving NZ a good run for its money). Then we caught the tram out to the coast. It's only about a 10 minute ride away but kind of feels like a whole other place. It was a bit (if you really use your imagination) like a hot Brighton/south coast, with similar architecture and more high rise buildings than I ever saw in NZ, ice-cream pavilions and some trendy bars. Being trendy young things, Janelle and I stopped for a beer or two in one of these bars, Stokehouse. We sat outside and did some catching up and some people watching. We were kept amused by the posers who stroll along sucking their stomachs in and thinking they are god's gift. They generally aren't but have clearly been working on their look for a long time.

Today I've done bugger all and it feels great. My main accomplishment was making a big pot of dhal to take to Janelle's friends tonight. It smells good. I also walked to the local shops and got some groceries. There's lots of nice cafes there so I think I might be making that walk on a regular basis. It's warm here - it was meant to get up to 27 degrees - but it's been overcast all day and rain is forecast. Just as well really as we're meant to be restricted to taking 4 minute showers due to the water shortage. There's an egg timer in everyone's bathroom. 4 minutes is OK for a regular shower but think I might need more than that on hair wash and leg shave day. Maybe I'll have to be on shower rations in the run up. It'll be like being on the Flying Kiwi trip all over again.

It's so nice being settled somewhere for more than a couple of nights. I've actually unpacked my clothes and I feel very at home here. It's lovely just pottering around, doing a bit of cooking, not having to do anything. I'm really looking forward to reading. I've only read one book in a month. That's unlike me. I'm also looking forward to exploring Melbourne, but I'm not going to do it at break-neck speed. I'm going to take my time and enjoy it. Stopping for lots of flat whites en route.

Sunday 4 April 2010

North Island highlights

So, since my last more diary-like post here's what I've been up to, in note form so you're not here all day reading about my adventures:

Bay of Islands - sunshine, beaches, blue seas, sailing, dolphins. Bliss. Leave me there for two weeks and I'd be happy. I'd wanted to catch up with my mate Tim's family in Kerikeri but didn't make it up that far, which was a shame. I also went to a Maori cultural evening at the Treaty House one evening. It was fascinating to learn more about this culture and their customs. I was surprised that this was the first Maori experience I've come across on the trip. After Bay of Islands I said a sad farewell to my closest travel mates. I was very sorry to see them go their separate ways.

The Coromandel Peninsula - rugged coastline, a lovely walk to Cathedral Cove, fresh fish Thai curry, thoughts of Laura and her family holidaying here...



 


Rotorua - NZ's geo-thermal capital. Think bubbling, stinking mud. And geysers. And lakes of all the colours of the rainbow. And steam coming out the ground in random places. And hot springs. And thermal baths. And the all-pervading stench of sulphur. Also worth a mention was my lemon and gingergrass and poached pear Helene ice cream. So good.











A visit to the Huka Falls where 200,000 litres of water plunge 9m over the rock face every second - enough to fill five Olympic swimming pools every minute. Pretty powerful. The vertical drop isn't very steep but the volume of water surging through the falls is pretty incredible. This was followed by a walk along the Waikato River to the town of Taupo with a dip in the river at the point where it was joined by a hot spring. It was hotter than bath water in parts.



Beautiful Lake Taupo as the sun set. It was smooth as glass and absolutely stunning. The shoreline was full of pumice stones. I'd never really stopped to think about where pumice stones came from. Shame I couldn't take one home for the bath.






An early start for the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a 19.4k walk through volcanic terrain. Breathtaking scenery. Like nothing I've seen before. Hard bloody work too. But well worth it. Worthy of a mention was one of the Texan ladies in our group who sat on the minibus with her portable battery-powered make-up mirror, the sort with spotlights round it, applying a full face of make up and curling her eyelashes. At 6am. I kid you not. You may not be surprised to hear that her and her mate finished two hours later than everyone else.

So, although the North Island wasn't as much fun as the South, mainly thanks to the guides we had not really being up to scratch and the loss of my new-found friends, it was still pretty special. Looking through the photos again reminds me of just how special this country is. So varied. And so beautiful. I love it here.


I was so so happy to see Laura when she picked me up in Wellington yesterday. To be back in my second home. To have a shower. Do a wash. Two washes in fact. To have a bed. With a pillow. And a hot cross bun. Thanks to Laura my final North Island highlights have been just as good, although not as photogenic as the rest of the trip. Yesterday afternoon Laura took me to the cinema to see an awesome NZ film called Boy. You have to go see it. It made me laugh out loud. It made me cry. It was heart-warming and I'm happy I got to see it while I was in NZ. Laura's mate did the animation too:
http://www.boythemovie.co.nz

Afterwards we went for dinner at Floriditas. To continue the food porn theme I'll tell you what I had: feta and mint flat bread and warm olives to start, steak with roasted aubergine and tzatziki for main and half a warm fig and almond tart with vanilla ice cream for pud. Washed down with a delicious dessert wine. Yum. I thought a lot about Kate and Cav today as they celebrated their wedding back in Northumberland. I'm so sorry I missed it and wish I could have been there

Today has been very chilled. I got a chocolate bunny from Laura this morning so we demolished that with a cup of coffee. Then Steve came round and we started on the beers at noon (the clocks went back here last night so it was technically 1pm, that sounds a bit better). Laura made a delicious pasta and ragu sauce with a green salad followed by chocolate mousse for lunch. We also polished off our last bottle of Murdoch James pinot gris. A very civilised way to spend Easter Sunday. The weather has turned cold and damp, it really feels like autumn is on its way here, so it's been a good excuse to not do much this afternoon. Happy Easter to you all. I hope it's filled with lots of Cadbury's Creme Eggs.

I did it

I'm safely back in Wellington after a month on the road and I think the enormity of what I've done has finally hit me. I don't quite know how I've managed, but managed I have. It's interesting re-reading my first few posts with the hindsight I've now got. As I was taught at uni, I'll go back to the intro in this, the NZ conclusion and summarise my findings:

- I'm so pleased I escaped my UK life when I did. If I'd left it later maybe it would have been even more difficult. It's been good not to have much thinking time. I thought I'd have had a lot more. I talked a lot with my counsellor about that, but in the event I was worrying unnecessarily. The days have been pretty chocka with loads of distractions and I've been constantly surrounded by people. I think I'll have more of that quiet time in Melbourne when I can do more thinking. It's done me good to escape the relative safety of my flat. I don't worry about the material things that I've left behind as much as I thought I would. To some extent I've put what's happened in a box and have been trying to keep the lid from popping open. Occasionally it does. Often I force it back down before it opens fully. Sometimes I lock the box so that it can't be opened. Maybe that's a good thing and maybe it's not. But it's the reality of today. It might be different tomorrow. I've got to live more in the moment.

- I miss family and friends but I also feel that I've been able to be on my own here without feeling that people are worrying about me all the time. The phone doesn't ring. People can't come and see me and cook for me and look after me. Some people on the trip didn't know my story. They just knew me for who I was and treated me as a 'normal' person. I don't mean that to come across in the wrong way. Believe me, I wouldn't have got through the past few months without those good people at home taking care of me and I know I'll need their love and support in the future, but you do start feeling like a bit of a burden whether you want to or not. I don't want anyone to read anything into that. It's hard to articulate exactly what I mean but I think I mean that I've got some very private space here to think and do what I need to think and do when I need to think and do it. Although, as I just said, I haven't really had any proper downtime yet. I haven't felt homesick. I feel T sick regularly but not homesick. I kind of feel like I don't have a home anymore. I've missed individuals but not my life or particular foods or televisions programmes or anything of that ilk. I've felt 110% better about everything than I expected to feel. That's a significant thing. But I acknowledge that I couldn't have done it without Laura's support. She's been my rock while I've been here. I feel lucky to have had that and can't thank her enough. For everything. 

- The long flights on my own don't concern me anymore. I did a skydive. How can a long flight phase me? You just need to alleviate the boredom. It's a means of getting from A to B. I don't think I had that perspective before. As I've said before, business class helps. Tomorrow I fly economy. But I've got Janelle waiting at the other side for me. And it's only a 4 hour flight so I can't really complain.

- I still can't begin to think about coming back in May. I don't want to think about it. I'm still trying to live for today and hope I'm making some progress on that front.

- I heart NZ. I really really do. It's been kind to me. It feels like the right place to have come. T would have absolutely loved it. I've seen some pretty amazing places and done some pretty amazing things. I will be back.

- How can I have been worried about sleeping in a tent for a month? Or someone getting me in the night? Or sleeping in shared dorm? What a waste of time. I can also now use most toilets. That's quite a personal achievement. Funny how you sweat the small stuff. I did a bloody skydive. I still can't get over that.

- The people I've met along the way have really helped. Even if they didn't know they were helping. They did stop me being alone. There were fewer horrors in the group than I imagined. And the horrors there were provided a talking point and some entertainment so I'm grateful to them for that. I've made friends that I'll keep in touch with and some that I will likely see again. It's good to have people to reminisce with, even remotely. We shared some real highs. We had a laugh. I've actually done lots of proper clutching your sides laughing. That felt good.

Only two people asked my directly if I was married as a result of seeing my wedding ring. Others clearly noticed it but didn't ask. Others still knew that I'd done stuff in the past with my husband but didn't ask where he was now. One girl made a point of talking to me about T on more than one occasion. I'm grateful to her for that. Before the trip I had visions of me breaking down in tears as my story came out during an ice-breaker or similar and I discussed this at length with my counsellor. That didn't happen. Another waste of time. In lots of ways it was a relief to tell people. And to know that I could speak to those people if I needed to. I'm grateful to them for listening. I know it's a bit of a conversation stopper and can't have been easy for them.

- My budget has gone out the window. I'm trying to follow my wise sister's advice and have no regrets about anything. I'm not being frivolous but if I want to do something then I do it, regardless of money. That's kind of liberating for me. And has meant for some great experiences. Definitely no regrets.

- I'm over the moon to have been able to be part of Laura's life here in Wellington for a short time. Even our New World supermarket trips were fun. I'll miss Laura. And I'll miss Wellington. I feel so at home here. Laura has given me plenty of space, the run of her home, lifts everywhere, great food and lots of drink. I'm lucky to count her as my friend and have two wishes. One, that I can return the favour in the UK one day. Not just a London visit but a bit of a tour of my country and where I grew up. I think she would like Northumberland. And two, that she'll have me back. Sooner rather than later. That said, I'm really looking forward to getting to Melbourne. I can't wait to see little Paatschy and my old school friend, Chris. Two more friendly faces that I know will help me feel at home in their city and make the next leg of my journey that little bit more bearable.