So, we survived three nights on Whitsunday Magic and enjoyed it so much that we've booked another three nights. We've got a couple of hours on dry land before we get back on board. The boat is stunning with a big sun deck on top with loungers for lounging, plus another deck at the back with some all-important shade and tables and chairs for eating al fresco. We've got an en-suite cabin (teeny tiny, both the cabin and the en suite but adequate for our needs) with air-con and the food has been out of this world. We knew we'd arrived when, lounging on our loungers this morning, the chef approached and said, 'Chocolate tart ladies?' We've had peppered steak with garlic and rosemary sauteed potatoes, fish with salt and pepper calamari served on a bed of lemon and lime risotto and grilled zuccini, fruit sorbet with ginger crumble, vanilla panna cotta with fruit coulis... You get the drift. Why would we not get back on the boat?
We've also done lots of snorkelling and had fish eyeballing us, so close they are touching our masks. We've seen lots of lovely coral. A few turtles. A dolphin. Done a bush walk. Seen the swirling sands that you will have seen on postcards. I went for a run (in the rain admittedly) on Whitehaven Beach. And I've done lots of reading. The crew were all lovely - mainly English - and the passengers were all nice too. No life-long friendships but that's not why I'm here. Janelle and I have survived living in such close proximity and we're really looking forward to the next three days. The weather has been mixed but always warm so no complaints there. We've also had the sails up a few times - that's pretty amazing.
So, the bad news about staying on the boat for three more days is that I'm going to be at sea for my birthday. Now that's a great thing for me but I know it will upset me Ma if she doesn't get to speak to me on the day. I'll just have to see if we've got signal, as we haven't for large parts of the cruise, but I know you will be thinking of me and will be thinking right back atchya. It will be a tough day but in a way, being so remote will help it not feel like my birthday. And that's a good thing. Unfortunately we managed to leave the parcels people have very kindly posted to me in Melbourne, but they are winging their way to Brisbane as I type so I'll get them on Sunday. Thank you so much to those of you who did that - you are very kind. And I'm also incredibly touched by the lovely Zehra who has arranged to go out for a drink with Molly on my birthday. You are a very special person and I love you for doing that. I'm so touched that you even thought of it, nevermind extended international invites to our friends. I'll be raising my glass to you and thanks to you I'll be enjoying a cocktail or two, or maybe some bubbly as the sun sets over the ocean - thank you Z!
So, on that note I better sign off as my internet time is running out. Will be back later in the week...
Monday, 26 April 2010
Friday, 23 April 2010
The sunshine state
Well, here I am at Brisbane airport waiting for our flight to Proserpine in the Whitsundays. It's a beautiful sunny day and very warm up here, although the locals find it a bit cool now it's autumn. Brisbane is a lovely city and we've been extremely well looked after by Janelle's aunty and uncle. Yesterday we were taken down the river on the catamaran and saw Brissie from the river. There's some lovely waterfront properties with private jetties, not dissimilar in parts to the Thames in Surrey. Last night we went out in town with Janelle's cousin and sat at a waterfront bar with views of the city and bridge and had one too many bottles of sav. Still, we're on holiday.
Later we join a tall ship, the Whitsunday Magic, for a three-day cruise around the islands. I can't wait. We seem to have been quite hectic up until now, what with the move etc, so it will be nice to get on board and not have to worry about anything for a while. Do some reading. Maybe some snorkelling. Enjoy the food and the company. It'll be interesting to see who we meet on the boat and funny to think of them getting excited for the same trip right now.
Anyway, I will update you on the end of the Melbourne leg when I've got more time but just wanted to check in and say hello. Thanks for the various texts and emails you've sent - it's always so nice to get them and hear how you're doing back home. Happy belated birthday to Marra Hooch - hope you had a good one. Get back to work Molly Mackey. And a final big up to the Toon who will lift our first bit of silverware in a canny while at the weekend. Haway the lads!
Later we join a tall ship, the Whitsunday Magic, for a three-day cruise around the islands. I can't wait. We seem to have been quite hectic up until now, what with the move etc, so it will be nice to get on board and not have to worry about anything for a while. Do some reading. Maybe some snorkelling. Enjoy the food and the company. It'll be interesting to see who we meet on the boat and funny to think of them getting excited for the same trip right now.
Anyway, I will update you on the end of the Melbourne leg when I've got more time but just wanted to check in and say hello. Thanks for the various texts and emails you've sent - it's always so nice to get them and hear how you're doing back home. Happy belated birthday to Marra Hooch - hope you had a good one. Get back to work Molly Mackey. And a final big up to the Toon who will lift our first bit of silverware in a canny while at the weekend. Haway the lads!
Friday, 16 April 2010
Going AWOL
Just to let you know that we're moving house tomorrow and the new place doesn't have internet access. It'll be like therapy for me. I'll have to go cold turkey. It also means that it'll likely be all quiet on the blog front, in case you were wondering what had happened to me. In addition to the lack of internet access, we fly to Brisvegas on Wednesday then join a 3-day sailing trip on Friday so I'll definitely be AWOL during that time. I'll be back as and when I can. Hope you all have a good weekend and that the volcanic ash cloud soon blows over so my poor parents can get back from Poland.
Also, a quick update on my day if you're interested: this morning I took the Colt for a drive to the local shops. It all went well but when Janelle got back from work she informed me I'd parked the car the wrong way on the street. Apparently here you can't park in the opposite direction to the flow of traffic on your side of the road. Strange but true. This afternoon I went to see the Ron Mueck exhibition (http://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/ronmueck/). It was truly amazing. I've never seen anything like it. Talented guy. Tonight has been all about the pumpkin risotto and packing for the move tomorrow. Oh, and a little bit of emailing and blogging. And the sun shone all day long in the blue blue sky. It's meant to be the same tomorrow and will hopefully last until Sunday when we're exploring some of the Mornington Peninsula wineries. Bring it on.
Also, a quick update on my day if you're interested: this morning I took the Colt for a drive to the local shops. It all went well but when Janelle got back from work she informed me I'd parked the car the wrong way on the street. Apparently here you can't park in the opposite direction to the flow of traffic on your side of the road. Strange but true. This afternoon I went to see the Ron Mueck exhibition (http://www.ngv.vic.gov.au/ronmueck/). It was truly amazing. I've never seen anything like it. Talented guy. Tonight has been all about the pumpkin risotto and packing for the move tomorrow. Oh, and a little bit of emailing and blogging. And the sun shone all day long in the blue blue sky. It's meant to be the same tomorrow and will hopefully last until Sunday when we're exploring some of the Mornington Peninsula wineries. Bring it on.
I know what I mean but it's hard to articulate...
Last night I met up with Ben and Josh who T and I met on our South American trip in 2002. Believe it or not, they live just down the road from Janelle. Not just in the same huge country that I happen to be in. Or the same town, which would be a coincidence in itself. But in the same hood. It really is a small world. Either that or the powers that be that conspired to make this trip possible (I'm thinking timely redundancy, free business class flights, key friends in key places, etc), intervened yet again. T got on so well with Ben and Josh on every level, from music to outlook on life, that it wouldn't surprise me if he, or these mysterious powers that be, conspired to make it possible for me to meet up with them. This is such a surreal trip in many ways. I feel like I'm unwittingly on a Tim trip that has been specially tailored for Sarah. But it's still a Tim trip. It's like fate, man. I was meant to come on this trip and I was meant to meet up with the people I've been able to meet up with in order to get something from those experiences that will somehow help me.
Anyway, T and I have only seen the boys once since Peru, when they lived in London, and that was a good few years ago now. But seeing them again last night it was as if I only saw them yesterday. And that is such a good feeling. We were only together for a few days, let's say a week, in South America. (We met on a bus in Pisco, got off somewhere and did some sand-boarding, got a ride in a random Dodge to Nazca - a very surreal journey - then celebrated T's birthday together before our early morning plane ride above the Nazca Lines. We then went our separate ways, met again on the Inca Trail and had a drunken night out or two in Cusco afterwards before we said our goodbyes once again. In La Paz we met Ben and Josh's sister Amber and had another random night in an Italian restaurant and that was it.)
From meeting Ben and Josh again, I'm truly amazed at how much you get to know people in a short space of time and how much you can remember from 8 years ago when you engage your brain. Although we've never been close friends, never spent much time together and haven't really kept in touch over the years, it really didn't matter. It felt so normal to see them again and it didn't matter that we didn't know the minutiae of each other's lives over the past 8 years. In fact, maybe it was better that way, as it meant we just caught up on the highlights rather than the mundane. So we shared recent news. And we did lots of reminiscing about the short time we spent together in South America. Reminding each other of things the others may have forgotten. I really can't remember dancing to Rock DJ in the Mama Africa nightclub in Cusco for example. It doesn't surprise me a) that I was dancing to Rock DJ, b) that I can't remember it, especially given it was probably about 2am and I'd no doubt had a skinful, and c) because it was 8 whole years ago, but it's nice that someone I was with that night can remember it and can remind me of it.
It's so hard being without the person who has been at your side for the past 13 years for so many reasons. But one of those reasons is not having anyone to talk about your shared experiences with. Either experiences that you both remember and can re-live together, or experiences that one of you may have forgotten but the other person can provide the prompts to help jog your memory. That's one thing I really value about this trip. And one of the things that has made it possible for me to embark on this journey. Although I've gone it alone in lots of ways, I've never been on my own. And this trip will be the bond that ties all the people I've met on this trip, both old and new, together forever. I could meet people from the Flying Kiwi trip in 10 years time and we'd still be able to talk about our adventures, have a laugh, remind each other of the crazy time we spent together. The same applies to the old friends I've met along the way. This is just another connection that we'll always have. OK, some of the detail may get a bit fuzzy, but the chances are, as last night proved, one of you will remember some random and completely unimportant detail that the other has forgotten so that between you, you will be able to fill in the gaps and complete the memory. And remember. And smile.
(Sorry about the random paragraph formatting on this one. I'm over trying to fix it)
Anyway, T and I have only seen the boys once since Peru, when they lived in London, and that was a good few years ago now. But seeing them again last night it was as if I only saw them yesterday. And that is such a good feeling. We were only together for a few days, let's say a week, in South America. (We met on a bus in Pisco, got off somewhere and did some sand-boarding, got a ride in a random Dodge to Nazca - a very surreal journey - then celebrated T's birthday together before our early morning plane ride above the Nazca Lines. We then went our separate ways, met again on the Inca Trail and had a drunken night out or two in Cusco afterwards before we said our goodbyes once again. In La Paz we met Ben and Josh's sister Amber and had another random night in an Italian restaurant and that was it.)
From meeting Ben and Josh again, I'm truly amazed at how much you get to know people in a short space of time and how much you can remember from 8 years ago when you engage your brain. Although we've never been close friends, never spent much time together and haven't really kept in touch over the years, it really didn't matter. It felt so normal to see them again and it didn't matter that we didn't know the minutiae of each other's lives over the past 8 years. In fact, maybe it was better that way, as it meant we just caught up on the highlights rather than the mundane. So we shared recent news. And we did lots of reminiscing about the short time we spent together in South America. Reminding each other of things the others may have forgotten. I really can't remember dancing to Rock DJ in the Mama Africa nightclub in Cusco for example. It doesn't surprise me a) that I was dancing to Rock DJ, b) that I can't remember it, especially given it was probably about 2am and I'd no doubt had a skinful, and c) because it was 8 whole years ago, but it's nice that someone I was with that night can remember it and can remind me of it.
It's so hard being without the person who has been at your side for the past 13 years for so many reasons. But one of those reasons is not having anyone to talk about your shared experiences with. Either experiences that you both remember and can re-live together, or experiences that one of you may have forgotten but the other person can provide the prompts to help jog your memory. That's one thing I really value about this trip. And one of the things that has made it possible for me to embark on this journey. Although I've gone it alone in lots of ways, I've never been on my own. And this trip will be the bond that ties all the people I've met on this trip, both old and new, together forever. I could meet people from the Flying Kiwi trip in 10 years time and we'd still be able to talk about our adventures, have a laugh, remind each other of the crazy time we spent together. The same applies to the old friends I've met along the way. This is just another connection that we'll always have. OK, some of the detail may get a bit fuzzy, but the chances are, as last night proved, one of you will remember some random and completely unimportant detail that the other has forgotten so that between you, you will be able to fill in the gaps and complete the memory. And remember. And smile.
(Sorry about the random paragraph formatting on this one. I'm over trying to fix it)
Thursday, 15 April 2010
Wildlife
Sometimes being in Australia is just like being at home. Sometimes it's not. Here's some wildlife examples:
- Those monster bats. They really freak me out. They fly so high up and they are really really big. Like really big. Here's a pic to illustrate my point. I've never seen anything like it.
The other day as Janelle was walking home from work, in the dark since the clocks went back, she disturbed one of these monsters. She said she could hear the whoosh, whoosh of its wings as it went. Some googling has revealed that they are fruit bats or flying foxes. No shit. They are about the size of foxes. Wikipedia tells me that they are frugivorous or nectivorous so they aren't about to come and attach themselves to my neck, but I'm not so sure.
- Yesterday, during my paddle, I looked out to sea and saw a group of seagulls bobbing around in the water. Beside them were two swans. Then I looked again. My swans were in fact pelicans. Something we would only see in a zoo back home. I quite like pelicans and have seen them before in South America but it was still funny seeing them going about their business in Melbourne.
- When I went running round the Yarra Bend Park the other day I saw lots of budgerigars. In the wild. Not in cages like little Oscar (our childhood, and much-loved, budgie). They were the colours of the rainbow and got quite close. There's also lots of parakeets and those white cockatoos flying about the place. The parakeets remind me of home as there's thousands of them in west London. They make a right racket.
- On the way to Colac we passed lots of kangaroo and koala warning signs on the road but the only thing we saw was a roo roadkill. Imagine one of those buggers hitting your car. Especially the 20-odd year old Colt. I think it would have done us more damage that we would have done it.
Right, that's enough David Attenborough for one day. Go see Micmacs if you get the chance. It's a great little film - typically and Frenchly quirky - and another of those non-Hollywood feel-good movies. Not necessary to see it on the big screen; add it to your lovefilm list if you like French films.
- Those monster bats. They really freak me out. They fly so high up and they are really really big. Like really big. Here's a pic to illustrate my point. I've never seen anything like it.
The other day as Janelle was walking home from work, in the dark since the clocks went back, she disturbed one of these monsters. She said she could hear the whoosh, whoosh of its wings as it went. Some googling has revealed that they are fruit bats or flying foxes. No shit. They are about the size of foxes. Wikipedia tells me that they are frugivorous or nectivorous so they aren't about to come and attach themselves to my neck, but I'm not so sure.
- Yesterday, during my paddle, I looked out to sea and saw a group of seagulls bobbing around in the water. Beside them were two swans. Then I looked again. My swans were in fact pelicans. Something we would only see in a zoo back home. I quite like pelicans and have seen them before in South America but it was still funny seeing them going about their business in Melbourne.
- When I went running round the Yarra Bend Park the other day I saw lots of budgerigars. In the wild. Not in cages like little Oscar (our childhood, and much-loved, budgie). They were the colours of the rainbow and got quite close. There's also lots of parakeets and those white cockatoos flying about the place. The parakeets remind me of home as there's thousands of them in west London. They make a right racket.
- On the way to Colac we passed lots of kangaroo and koala warning signs on the road but the only thing we saw was a roo roadkill. Imagine one of those buggers hitting your car. Especially the 20-odd year old Colt. I think it would have done us more damage that we would have done it.
Right, that's enough David Attenborough for one day. Go see Micmacs if you get the chance. It's a great little film - typically and Frenchly quirky - and another of those non-Hollywood feel-good movies. Not necessary to see it on the big screen; add it to your lovefilm list if you like French films.
Wednesday, 14 April 2010
Safe havens
I know I've said it before, but I'll say it again. I couldn't have done this trip without the love and support of my conveniently-located international friends. Staying with first Laura, then Janelle and last night with my school friend Chris and his girlfriend Genevieve has been my comfort blanket. In each of their homes I have been made to feel so welcome. I've been allowed to come and go as I please and have been generously fed and watered. I've felt safe and looked after. And really at home in their homes. I can't imagine how I'd be feeling right now if I was staying in a downtown backpackers. I think I might have caught a flight home a long time ago. While it's been really good to make new friends on this journey I'm on, it's also been a life-saver to see familiar faces from the past. Some from the more recent past and some from the more distant past, but familiar faces all the same. We've had a yarn, reminisced, caught up on the years we've missed. It's amazing how with real friends it doesn't matter how much time passes. When you see each other again you just pick up where you left off.
And I've still got more friends to see. Tomorrow night I'm meeting a couple of Aussies T and I met when we did our South America trip about 6 years ago - how random is that that they live in Melbourne too? Then I'm been given a bed with a complimentary airport shuttle service from my old Strasbourg friend Steve in Brisbane at the start of May, before I head off to see my old school friend Pam in Singapore, followed by a visit to a former colleague who now lives in Saigon. I feel lucky to count these people as friends and am eternally grateful to them for helping to make this journey possible. I really couldn't have done it without you.
As I mentioned, last night I stayed with Chris and Genevieve in the posh suburb of Elwood. They've got a lovely place, right on the beach. I was driven around Albert Park, the Australian Grand Prix circuit that still had the hoardings etc up from the recent GP, then it was back to theirs for dinner - a delicious snapper pasta - and lots of red wine. It was so nice to see them and where they live. You'd have thought they'd have made more of an effort with the bedding though - it didn't even match ;o)
This morning I managed to sleep through two text messages beeping and didn't wake up until 9.20, the longest lie-in I've had since leaving home I think. I was lucky enough to have my morning cuppa in an NUFC mug then I had a paddle in the sea and walked along the beach to St Kilda. St Kilda is an up-market bit of town with some great little cafes. It's a nice place to just hang out and feel like you're on holiday. It was overcast again today but not too cold, although we've got the heating on now. I think autumn is really setting in here. Roll on Brisbane and some sunshine... This afternoon I took in some art at one the galleries in Federation Square and now we're just waiting for our fish to cook then Janelle and I are off to the cinema to see a French film called Micmacs. Busy busy.
And I've still got more friends to see. Tomorrow night I'm meeting a couple of Aussies T and I met when we did our South America trip about 6 years ago - how random is that that they live in Melbourne too? Then I'm been given a bed with a complimentary airport shuttle service from my old Strasbourg friend Steve in Brisbane at the start of May, before I head off to see my old school friend Pam in Singapore, followed by a visit to a former colleague who now lives in Saigon. I feel lucky to count these people as friends and am eternally grateful to them for helping to make this journey possible. I really couldn't have done it without you.
As I mentioned, last night I stayed with Chris and Genevieve in the posh suburb of Elwood. They've got a lovely place, right on the beach. I was driven around Albert Park, the Australian Grand Prix circuit that still had the hoardings etc up from the recent GP, then it was back to theirs for dinner - a delicious snapper pasta - and lots of red wine. It was so nice to see them and where they live. You'd have thought they'd have made more of an effort with the bedding though - it didn't even match ;o)
This morning I managed to sleep through two text messages beeping and didn't wake up until 9.20, the longest lie-in I've had since leaving home I think. I was lucky enough to have my morning cuppa in an NUFC mug then I had a paddle in the sea and walked along the beach to St Kilda. St Kilda is an up-market bit of town with some great little cafes. It's a nice place to just hang out and feel like you're on holiday. It was overcast again today but not too cold, although we've got the heating on now. I think autumn is really setting in here. Roll on Brisbane and some sunshine... This afternoon I took in some art at one the galleries in Federation Square and now we're just waiting for our fish to cook then Janelle and I are off to the cinema to see a French film called Micmacs. Busy busy.
Monday, 12 April 2010
Roadtrip
One week today I arrived in Melbourne. Time really does fly. But at the same time I feel like I've been here for longer than a week. The jazz night was a big success. Janelle and I went for cocktails (pear gin fizz - pears and gin, obviously, plus lemon juice, cinnamon syrup and soda - yum) at a cool bar called Murmur. Then on to the Bluestone jazz bar/restaurant that's owned by Janelle's friend's sister. We met up with Kirsten and Josie, who I met once before in London, and Josie's sister. It was a very chilled out evening. We had a delicious Amaretto cocktail (yum again) then sat down with a bottle of Merlot and had a good natter over pizzas and listened to the jazz that was better than expected. Once again, Janelle's friends made me feel very welcome and any anxieties I had before we arrived soon evaporated. I need to live more in the moment. Maybe if I say that enough times I'll start believing it more.
On Friday I met Janelle for lunch and we sat in the sunshine in Federation Square having our sandwiches. It was a shame Janelle had to go back to work but work she must, so I took myself off on a 6k walk around a park, to the Shrine of Remembrance and into the botanic gardens then back along the Yarra river. I saw a different side of Melbourne to the hustle and bustle of the city and it was nice wandering through the greenery with my thoughts and the birds, plus the odd tourist, for company. I did a lot of thinking. I felt a bit lonely. I missed T.
The fuse had tripped so the house was in darkness when I got home. I did the dishes wearing my head torch. Be prepared. On Friday night we met up with Michaela, another of Janelle's lovely friends (she possibly has even more than me), and went to a really cool local bar called Joe's Shoe Store. It once used to be, yes, you guessed it, a shoe store. Now it's a dark, sparsely-furnished little place with eclectic staff who play eclectic music. It was a bit like Cafe Kick on Shoreditch High St for those of you who know that place. But without the table football. You order pizzas from Pizza Meine Liebe next door and they bring them in to you. It had a refreshingly easy-going, unpretentious vibe. You didn't need to be cool to be there. Just as well. Similar places in London can be a bit try-hard. My Wellington and Melbourne experiences have really made me think that we're doing something wrong in London. We have so many chains, from Nando's to Pizza Express and from All Bar One to Slug & Lettuce. Granted there are independent joints too, but between the chains and the smelly old-man's pubs, the good independent places seem few and far between. Here they are on pretty much every corner. And they all seem good. I've not been in the coffee shop in the new arcade in my home town, but it doesn't entice me in and I've not heard great reports. Why couldn't that have been a cool little cafe with comfy chairs and cushions and interesting music, serving not just good but amazing coffee and proper homemade muffins and scones? Maybe I should stop ranting and do something about it. Maybe it still can be that place.
Anyway, I digress. We set off in the 20-odd year old Colt on Saturday morning bound for the Great Ocean Road. The name says it all. It makes you want to drive it. It was all the things it promises to be. Great. Ocean. Road. The weather was good, sunshine and a few clouds. A pleasant temperature. We drove down the freeway for an hour or so before turning off and heading for the ocean. We stopped for lunch at Torquay and sat on the beach watching the surfers. There were literally hundreds of them but the waves weren't huge so I reckon they were beginners. From there we continued down the coast to Lorne, where Janelle's family used to holiday every year in their caravan. It's a lovely little town and feels very unspoiled compared to some of the UK's seaside resorts. In Lorne there were a few trampolines for the kids, maybe even mini golf, but no amusement arcades and no stalls serving hot dogs and candy-floss. We stopped for a chai latte in a random op-shop that was serving hot drinks and had a balcony overlooking the sea. I've never had chai latte before but it was good. I might be having more of them.
Then it was on to Colac, home of Janelle's lovely dad. He was really pleased to see us and we were welcomed into the family home with open arms. We had delicious roast lamb and were regaled with stories of his past, some of which even Janelle had never heard before. Colac is a smallish town and from what Janelle tells me, growing up there wasn't dissimilar to where I grew up. There's one nightclub for example, called Hush, where you wouldn't really go. Everyone knows everyone. Sometimes a good thing. Sometimes not. We slept in twin beds in Janelle's room. Like visiting Laura's childhood home, it was good to see where Janelle had grown up and to meet her dad. I think it was slightly surreal for Janelle to have a relatively recent friend from the other side of the world sleeping over in her childhood bedroom. Instead of chatting on and eating Mars Bars at midnight, we both popped our seven Chinese Ted tablets and went to sleep. How times change.
It was wet and very windy when we woke up on Sunday but Janelle and I set off for the Twelve Apostles anyway. I'm glad we did as the weather improved and we managed to stay dry every time we got out the car. We drove through the countryside, some of it not dissimilar to Northumberland, back to the coast at Port Campbell. The wind was blowing off the sea and the waves were pretty spectacular. It wasn't a good hair day. And I had to borrow a big kind of donkey jacket from Janelle's dad to keep the wind out, so I maybe wasn't looking my best. Still, as my mother would say, it wasn't a fashion show and at least I was warm.
The coastline down there is spectacular. The erosion of the limestone is incredible and the tops of the cliffs are covered in green, scrubby bush. The sand is a lovely warm yellow colour and limestone cliffs and eroded stacks glow the same warm yellow when the sun catches them. It's a rugged coastline, very exposed to the elements. While it's nothing like Ireland or Scotland, the coastline has a similar wildness about it. We stopped at Loch Ard Gorge and walked to a blow hole and the Loch Ard Gorge. Here in 1878, the Loch Ard clipper, transporting immigrants from England, hit a reef and capsized, taking all but two of the 53 passengers with her. The two survivors found each other washed into the gorge and were rescued. Imagine coming all that way, sailing for endless days, only to hit a reef just off shore and drown. That really is the worst kind of luck.
There aren't actually twelve Apostles at the Twelve Apostles. Only eight. The ninth collapsed in 2005. (On a slightly different note, there's another place along the coast called London Bridge. It used to look like a bridge but the arch collapsed in 1990 leaving two people stranded on one side. They had to be rescued by helicopter. How scary must that have been? And how lucky that they weren't on the arch when it collapsed.) You view the Twelve Apostles from a cliff-top walkway and it was very very windy up there. The waves were really impressive and the sun kept coming out from the clouds to light up the sea and the stacks. The current stacks will eventually collapse too but by then new stacks will be formed as the coastline is further eroded so while there may never be Twelve Apostles, I reckon there will always be Apostles.
We had fish and chips in Port Campbell before making our way back to Colac. After a guided tour of the new house Janelle's dad is building for himself and loading the car up with veggies from the veggie patch we were back on the road again, this time Melbourne-bound. Janelle's dad really wanted me to stay for longer so he could show me some of the area's other sights before putting me back on the train to Melbourne, but we had a dinner appointment with Janelle's brother that evening so unfortunately I couldn't take him up on his offer. An invite to visit Colac was even extended to my family if they were ever over this way. He's such a kind and generous man. And, Anna H, if you're reading this then he would love to meet you too - he was asking after you and I think he misses your Corporate Edge chats! Sunday evening was spent with some more of Janelle's family - her brother, his wife and their two daughters. Once again I was made to feel very welcome and it was a relaxed and enjoyable evening with good food and good company.
I feel like I've gained a few pounds in the past two days. It's been a bit of an eating frenzy, so this morning I took myself out for another run. I was only out for half an hour or so but it was good to get some exercise and burn off some of the calories I've consumed. I also need to start thinking about some more serious training for the Great North Run that will no doubt be here before I know it. Quite how I'm going to manage 13 miles I don't know at this stage, but I will do it and I will do it for T. I saw in my diary that there was a Clapham Common 10k yesterday. I'm not sure if anyone from ICAP or any of my friends were doing it, but if you did then I hope it went well. I would really like to do the rest of them when I'm back (I think I miss two while I'm away) so will come and keep you company.
The weather is much cooler today and a bit blustery but it's meant to warm up later in the week. I'm meant to be going to Brunswick Street today - a cute little part of town with nice-looking shops but I'm sorry to say that I've got my old internet addiction back so I haven't yet gone. It's not that I'm addicted to the internet per se, more to keeping in touch with people. I only really use a handful of sites - hotmail, facebook, internet banking, the BBC (for NUFC and MotoGP updates) and my blog - so it's not that I spend hours doing random surfing but I constantly check my emails for messages. I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm waiting for an email from T. Right, well maybe admitting that is part of the battle so on that note I'll sign off, have some Vegemite on toast and make a move. It's about a 4k walk so at least I'll get some more fresh air and exercise. That will mean I'll be entitled to a nice cuppa when I get there. And I'll maybe sneak some homemade chocolate banana bread into my bag and have that too...
The fuse had tripped so the house was in darkness when I got home. I did the dishes wearing my head torch. Be prepared. On Friday night we met up with Michaela, another of Janelle's lovely friends (she possibly has even more than me), and went to a really cool local bar called Joe's Shoe Store. It once used to be, yes, you guessed it, a shoe store. Now it's a dark, sparsely-furnished little place with eclectic staff who play eclectic music. It was a bit like Cafe Kick on Shoreditch High St for those of you who know that place. But without the table football. You order pizzas from Pizza Meine Liebe next door and they bring them in to you. It had a refreshingly easy-going, unpretentious vibe. You didn't need to be cool to be there. Just as well. Similar places in London can be a bit try-hard. My Wellington and Melbourne experiences have really made me think that we're doing something wrong in London. We have so many chains, from Nando's to Pizza Express and from All Bar One to Slug & Lettuce. Granted there are independent joints too, but between the chains and the smelly old-man's pubs, the good independent places seem few and far between. Here they are on pretty much every corner. And they all seem good. I've not been in the coffee shop in the new arcade in my home town, but it doesn't entice me in and I've not heard great reports. Why couldn't that have been a cool little cafe with comfy chairs and cushions and interesting music, serving not just good but amazing coffee and proper homemade muffins and scones? Maybe I should stop ranting and do something about it. Maybe it still can be that place.
Then it was on to Colac, home of Janelle's lovely dad. He was really pleased to see us and we were welcomed into the family home with open arms. We had delicious roast lamb and were regaled with stories of his past, some of which even Janelle had never heard before. Colac is a smallish town and from what Janelle tells me, growing up there wasn't dissimilar to where I grew up. There's one nightclub for example, called Hush, where you wouldn't really go. Everyone knows everyone. Sometimes a good thing. Sometimes not. We slept in twin beds in Janelle's room. Like visiting Laura's childhood home, it was good to see where Janelle had grown up and to meet her dad. I think it was slightly surreal for Janelle to have a relatively recent friend from the other side of the world sleeping over in her childhood bedroom. Instead of chatting on and eating Mars Bars at midnight, we both popped our seven Chinese Ted tablets and went to sleep. How times change.
I feel like I've gained a few pounds in the past two days. It's been a bit of an eating frenzy, so this morning I took myself out for another run. I was only out for half an hour or so but it was good to get some exercise and burn off some of the calories I've consumed. I also need to start thinking about some more serious training for the Great North Run that will no doubt be here before I know it. Quite how I'm going to manage 13 miles I don't know at this stage, but I will do it and I will do it for T. I saw in my diary that there was a Clapham Common 10k yesterday. I'm not sure if anyone from ICAP or any of my friends were doing it, but if you did then I hope it went well. I would really like to do the rest of them when I'm back (I think I miss two while I'm away) so will come and keep you company.
The weather is much cooler today and a bit blustery but it's meant to warm up later in the week. I'm meant to be going to Brunswick Street today - a cute little part of town with nice-looking shops but I'm sorry to say that I've got my old internet addiction back so I haven't yet gone. It's not that I'm addicted to the internet per se, more to keeping in touch with people. I only really use a handful of sites - hotmail, facebook, internet banking, the BBC (for NUFC and MotoGP updates) and my blog - so it's not that I spend hours doing random surfing but I constantly check my emails for messages. I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm waiting for an email from T. Right, well maybe admitting that is part of the battle so on that note I'll sign off, have some Vegemite on toast and make a move. It's about a 4k walk so at least I'll get some more fresh air and exercise. That will mean I'll be entitled to a nice cuppa when I get there. And I'll maybe sneak some homemade chocolate banana bread into my bag and have that too...
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